How to Remove a Stripped Screw
A screw with a rounded-out head is not a lost cause. Work through these methods in order, from the free ones to the last resort, and most stripped screws come out without damaging the part.
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To remove a stripped screw, start with the simplest fix: a fresh, exact-size bit pressed hard with a rubber band between bit and head, turned slowly. If that fails, tap a slightly larger Torx bit into the head, use a manual impact driver, cut a new slot, or drill it with a screw extractor. Grab protruding heads with locking pliers. Drilling off the head is the last resort.
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How to remove a stripped screw: methods at a glance
Try these in order. Each step is a little more effort or risk than the last, and the first three cost nothing.
| # | Method | Best when | Risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fresh exact bit, heavy pressure, slow turn | Head partly worn | Very low |
| 2 | Rubber band or steel wool | Head mildly stripped | Very low |
| 3 | Tap in a larger or Torx bit | Recess rounded, screw not seized | Low |
| 4 | Manual impact driver | Rusted or tight screws in metal | Low to moderate |
| 5 | Cut a new slot | Head is exposed and accessible | Moderate (surface damage) |
| 6 | Screw extractor | Recess gone, screw stuck | Moderate (extractor can snap) |
| 7 | Pliers or drill off the head | Last resort | Higher |
Methods 1 and 2: better grip
1. Fresh bit, more pressure, less speed
Many "stripped" screws are just a worn bit in a slightly worn head. Put in a brand-new bit of the exact size and type. Check whether it is Phillips, Pozidriv or JIS; they look alike but do not fit alike. Push hard, in line with the screw, and turn slowly by hand or with a cordless tool on its lowest setting. A screwdriver with a hex bolster lets you add a wrench for more turning force while you lean on it.
2. Rubber band or steel wool
Lay a wide rubber band, a scrap of rubber glove, or a bit of steel wool over the head. Press the bit through it into the recess and turn slowly with heavy pressure. The material fills the rounded gaps and grips. This works well on small screws in cabinets, electronics and furniture.
Method 3: tap in a larger or Torx bit
If the Phillips recess is rounded, a Torx bit one size larger, or the next Phillips size up, can be tapped lightly into the head with a hammer so its edges bite fresh metal. Turn it slowly by hand. Use an old bit, because this can damage it, and do not hit hard enough to crack the part. This works best on softer screws, such as standard zinc-plated wood screws.
Method 4: manual impact driver
For screws in metal, especially rusted ones, a manual impact driver is the best next step. You set it to loosen, seat the bit, and strike it with a hammer. The blow drives the bit deep into the damaged recess at the same moment the internal cam turns it, so it bites instead of camming out. Soak the screw with penetrating oil first. Full steps are in how to use a manual impact driver.
A cordless impact driver on reverse at its lowest setting can work on a partly stripped wood screw, if you push hard and stop at the first sign of slipping. On a badly rounded head it makes things worse.
Manual impact drivers on Amazon JIS sets
Methods 5 and 6: cut a slot or use an extractor
5. Cut a new slot
If the head sits above or flush with the surface, cut a straight slot across it with an oscillating tool, rotary tool with a cut-off wheel, or a hacksaw. Then turn it out with a wide flat-blade screwdriver. Wear eye protection; cut-off wheels throw sparks and fragments. Protect the surrounding surface with tape, since the blade will mark it.
6. Screw extractor
Screw extractors bite into the screw in the loosening direction. Common types are spiral (easy-out) extractors, which need a pilot hole, and double-ended extractors with a burr end to cut a seat and a reverse-thread end to grip.
- Center-punch the screw head so the bit does not wander.
- Drill or burr the pilot to the depth and size the extractor set specifies. Use a drill in reverse with a left-hand bit if your set includes one; it sometimes spins the screw out on its own.
- Insert the extractor and turn it counterclockwise slowly with a drill on low speed or a tap handle.
- Apply steady force. If it will not turn, stop, add penetrating oil or heat (in metal, away from flammables) and try again.
Do not use an extractor in an impact driver unless the set says it is impact-rated. Extractors are hard and brittle, and a snapped extractor is much worse than a stripped screw.
Screw extractor sets on Amazon Left-hand drill bits
Method 7: pliers or drill off the head
If the head stands proud, clamp it with locking pliers or screw-extraction pliers with angled jaws and turn. Once it moves, keep going by hand.
If nothing else works, drill off the head with a bit slightly larger than the shank. The part comes free, and the shank stub left in the base can usually be gripped with pliers and backed out. In wood you can also leave it and drive a new screw beside it. Metal parts may need the stub drilled out and the hole re-tapped.
Rusted screws and bolts
When a screw is seized by rust or thread locker, grip alone does not solve it. Break the bond first with penetrating oil, shock and, in metal, heat, as covered in how to loosen a seized bolt. Then use the methods above.
Stripped hole, not stripped head
If the head is fine but the screw just spins, the threads in the wood or metal are stripped. Pull it out with pliers while turning in reverse, or pry gently under the head. In wood, fill the hole with glued hardwood slivers or toothpicks, let it dry and re-drive, or use a longer or thicker screw. In metal, step up a thread size or use a thread repair insert.
Prevent the next one
- Use the exact bit size and type. More on that in Phillips vs square vs Torx.
- Replace worn bits early. See impact driver bits.
- Keep the tool in line with the screw and push firmly.
- Use a lower speed for small screws and slow down at the end.
- Choose Torx or square-drive screws when you have a choice.
The full checklist is in how to stop stripping screws.
Safety: Wear eye protection for every method that involves hammering, cutting or drilling hardened steel. Keep heat away from fuel, wiring and plastics, and wipe off penetrating oil before heating.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use an impact driver to remove a stripped screw?
Sometimes. On reverse, low speed and heavy forward pressure, the impacts can break a partly stripped screw loose. On a badly stripped head it just finishes the job of rounding it out. A manual impact driver is usually better because the hammer blow presses the bit in.
Do screw extractors really work?
Yes, on the right screws. A good extractor set removes most stripped wood and machine screws. Cheap ones can snap off in the screw, and hardened extractor steel is very hard to drill out. Go slowly and do not force them.
What do I do if the screw extractor breaks?
Stop. Hardened extractor pieces are difficult to drill. Options include carbide or cobalt bits, a rotary tool to grind it out, or removing the surrounding material and repairing it. Prevention is cheaper: drill the right pilot and turn gently.
How do I remove a stripped screw with no head left?
If some of the shank sticks out, grip it with locking pliers. If it is flush, drill a pilot hole into the center and use an extractor, or remove the part and drill out or cut around the screw shank.
Does steel wool help with stripped screws?
It can. A small pad of steel wool or a scrap of abrasive cloth between the bit and head fills gaps and adds grip, much like a rubber band. Clean the debris out of nearby electronics or finishes afterward.