Do I Need an Impact Driver?
Impact drivers are in nearly every combo kit, so it is easy to assume everyone needs one. Plenty of people do not. Here is a simple way to decide based on what you actually build and fix.
We research tools from manufacturer specs and long-term owner feedback. If you buy through our Amazon links we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. How we make money.
You need an impact driver if you regularly drive screws longer than about 2-1/2 inches, build decks, fences or sheds, install cabinets, drive lag screws or work with self-drilling screws into steel. If you mostly hang pictures, assemble furniture and drill the odd hole, a good drill/driver is enough. If you are buying your first cordless tools, a drill and impact driver combo kit is usually the best value either way.
On this page
The quick answer: do I need an impact driver?
An impact driver earns its place when you drive long fasteners, lots of fasteners, or fasteners into hard material. Its rotational hammer blows keep screws turning where a drill stalls, with less effort and fewer stripped heads. If your projects rarely include those, a drill/driver does everything you need.
The rest of this page is a decision guide. Work through the three questions: what you build, how often, and what you already own. If you are unsure what the tool actually does day to day, see what an impact driver is used for first.
Step 1: what kind of projects do you do?
| Project | Need an impact driver? | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Deck building or re-decking | Yes | Hundreds of 2-1/2 to 3-inch screws plus lags or structural screws |
| Fences, pergolas, sheds, garden beds | Yes | Long exterior screws in treated lumber |
| Framing, basement walls | Yes | Structural screws and long fasteners |
| Cabinet and shelving installs | Yes, helpful | Long screws into studs; compact head fits inside cabinets |
| Metal studs, roofing, sheet metal | Yes | Self-drilling screws drive better with impacts |
| Basic car and equipment repair | Maybe | Small bolts with a socket adapter; an impact wrench for big ones |
| Hanging pictures, curtain rods, TV mounts | No | A drill handles the holes and screws |
| Flat-pack furniture | No | Too much power for particleboard |
| Drilling holes in wood, metal or masonry | No | That is the drill's job, or a hammer drill's |
| Small repairs, outlet covers, hinges | No | A drill's clutch is safer on small screws |
If two or more "Yes" rows describe your plans for the next year or two, you will use an impact driver. If everything you do is in the "No" rows, skip it for now.
Step 2: how often will you use it?
A few times a year
A single small project, such as one fence section or a raised bed, can be done with a drill if you pilot-drill and accept slower progress. You can also borrow or rent. If you are buying a drill anyway, though, the impact driver in a combo kit is cheap insurance.
Monthly or seasonal projects
This is the typical active homeowner. You will reach for the impact driver on most build projects. It is worth owning.
Weekly or professional use
You need one, and probably a good brushless model with multiple speed modes. Trades that drive screws all day often carry both a drill and an impact driver, frequently 12V for weight.
Step 3: what do you already own?
- Nothing cordless yet. Buy a drill and impact driver combo kit. You get two tools, batteries and a charger, usually for little more than a drill kit alone. Choose the platform first; see choosing a cordless tool platform.
- A cordless drill. Add a bare-tool impact driver on the same battery platform. That is the cheapest way in. The trade-offs are covered in bare tool vs kit.
- An old corded drill only. A combo kit gives you a modern cordless drill too, which you will use more than you expect.
- A drill on a platform you dislike. This is the moment to switch, before you buy more tools on it.
Clear yes and no scenarios
Yes, buy one
- You are building or re-decking a deck.
- You plan a shed, fence, pergola or playset.
- You are finishing a basement or framing walls.
- You install cabinets, shelving or closet systems.
- You drive lag screws to mount ledgers, posts or heavy brackets.
- Your drill stalls or twists your wrist on long screws.
No, a drill is enough
- You mostly hang pictures, shelves and curtain rods.
- You assemble flat-pack furniture.
- Your projects are small repairs and occasional holes.
- You rent, and most fixings go into drywall anchors.
- Your main need is drilling masonry. Get a hammer drill.
- You need precise holes for woodworking.
Edge case: if you only need to free a few stuck screws, for example on old hardware or a car's brake rotor screws, a manual impact driver struck with a hammer may be all you need.
Signs your drill is no longer enough
Many people only realize they need an impact driver halfway through a project. These are the usual signals:
- The drill stalls near the end of every long screw, even on the highest clutch setting or drill mode.
- You strip screw heads because you have to push hard to keep the bit seated while the motor fights the wood.
- The drill twists in your hand when a screw or lag binds. That kickback is the reason many people switch, and it is the risk that matters most with a drill on heavy fasteners.
- You are pre-drilling every hole just to make screws go in at all, not for accuracy.
- Your battery is empty well before the job is done.
- Your wrist and forearm ache after an afternoon of driving.
If two or three of these sound familiar, an impact driver will change how that work feels. The difference shows most on decks and framing, where owners consistently report it becomes the tool they reach for first. It will not make your drill redundant, though. You will still want the drill for holes, finesse and small screws.
Why a combo kit is usually the best value
Combo kits pair a drill/driver and an impact driver with shared batteries and one charger. Because the batteries and charger are the expensive part, the second tool adds relatively little to the price. Kits are also frequently discounted around holidays. For a first purchase, that makes the "do I need it?" question less critical: buy the kit and the impact driver is there when your projects grow.
What to look for:
- Brushless motors on both tools for runtime and modes.
- At least one battery of 2.0 Ah or larger, ideally two.
- A platform with tools you will want later: a circular saw, an oscillating tool, a vacuum.
- Warranty terms on the brand's site, since they differ.
Our picks are in best drill and impact driver combo kits.
If you decide yes: choosing one
For most homeowners, a brushless 18V/20V impact driver with 1,500 in-lbs or more covers everything from deck screws to 3/8-inch lag screws. A 12V model is lighter and fine for cabinets, trim and occasional decking; see 12V vs 18V impact driver. Look for a low first speed or an assist mode if you also drive small screws. Our best impact driver for DIY list covers options for different budgets, each with its weaknesses.
And if the drill-or-impact question is still open, the side-by-side breakdown is in impact driver vs drill.
Frequently asked questions
Is an impact driver worth it for a homeowner?
It is worth it if you take on projects with long screws: decks, fences, sheds, framing, garden beds or cabinet installs. For light maintenance and furniture assembly, it will mostly sit in its case. Buying it in a combo kit costs little extra and covers future projects.
Should I buy a drill or an impact driver first?
A drill first for most people. It drills holes, which an impact driver does poorly, and its clutch is forgiving on small screws. Add an impact driver as a bare tool on the same battery, or buy both together as a combo kit.
Can I just use my drill instead of an impact driver?
For a few long screws, yes. A drill will drive them with a sharp bit, pilot holes and firm pressure. For hundreds of deck screws or a set of lag screws, a drill stalls, strips heads and tires your wrist. That is the point where an impact driver pays off.
Do I need an impact driver for IKEA furniture?
No. Flat-pack furniture uses small screws in particleboard, which an impact driver strips easily. A drill on a low clutch setting or a small electric screwdriver is the better tool, and a hand screwdriver for the final turns.