Can You Drill With an Impact Driver?

An impact driver will spin a drill bit, and for some holes it is quick and handy. For others it is the wrong tool. Here is where the line falls, and which bits make it work.

Updated October 10, 20267 min readBy the ImpactDriver.net team

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Can you drill with an impact driver? Yes, within limits

An impact driver accepts any bit with a 1/4-inch hex shank, and drill bits are made that way. Snap one in, squeeze the trigger and it drills. With light resistance the tool simply spins, like a drill without a clutch. If the bit binds, the hammer kicks in and pulses the bit through.

That makes it handy for quick holes on a job where you already have the impact driver in hand. It does not make it a substitute for a drill. The table below shows where it does well and where it struggles. The wider comparison is in impact driver vs drill.

What an impact driver drills well, and what it does not

Size limits are practical guidelines, not manufacturer ratings. Larger bits are possible in softwood but slow and rough.

The pattern is simple. Where the hole only has to exist, such as a pilot hole, a wire run through a stud or a hole in thin ductwork, the impact driver is quick and good enough. Where the hole has to be accurate, clean or large, its design works against you.

Why an impact driver is not a great drill

Runout in the hex collet

The quick-release collet grips the hex shank with deliberate clearance so bits snap in and out fast. That clearance becomes runout: the tip of the bit traces a small circle instead of a point. For driving screws it does not matter, because the screw centers itself in its own threads. For drilling, it means oversized, slightly oval holes and bits that skate before they bite. Long bits make it worse. A drill's three-jaw chuck clamps the shank and runs much truer. If your bits visibly wobble, see impact driver bit wobble.

No clutch

A drill's clutch slips when torque rises past a set value, and its smooth rotation gives you a predictable feel. An impact driver has neither. When a spade bit grabs or a hole saw catches, the tool responds by hammering harder. That can snap a bit, tear out the wood or jerk the work. The reaction is short, so your wrist is spared, but the hole suffers.

Impacts are the wrong kind of hammer for masonry

Masonry bits work by forward blows that chip stone, while the bit rotates to clear dust. An impact driver hammers sideways, around the axis. It will polish the bottom of a concrete hole and overheat the bit. For masonry you need a hammer drill or rotary hammer. See hammer drill vs impact driver.

Which bits to use

Use bits made for impact drivers: a 1/4-inch hex shank and an impact rating. Impact-rated bits are made from tougher steel and are designed to survive the shock loads. Standard hex-shank bits fit but can snap at the shank under impact.

• Twist bits (hex shank): pilot holes and small holes in wood, plastic and thin metal. Black oxide or titanium-coated for wood; cobalt for steel.
• Brad-point bits: cleaner entry holes in wood, though collet runout limits the benefit.
• Spade bits: fast, rough holes through studs and plates for wiring and plumbing. Look for impact-rated versions. More in spade bits for impact drivers.
• Auger bits (hex shank): self-feeding screw tip pulls the bit through framing lumber. Good up to about 1 inch, but they can grab, so keep a firm grip.
• Step bits: clean holes in thin sheet metal and electrical boxes.
• Countersink bits: combined pilot and countersink for flush screws.

The full guide to choosing them is drill bits for impact drivers.

Impact-rated hex drill bit sets on Amazon

What about chuck adapters?

Hex-shank keyless chucks let you use round-shank bits. They work for an occasional hole, but they add length and runout, and the impacts can loosen the chuck jaws mid-hole. Treat them as a stopgap, not a solution.

How to drill with an impact driver

1. Choose the right bit. 1/4-inch hex, impact-rated, sharp, and no longer than the job needs.
2. Mark and dimple the spot. Use an awl in wood or a center punch in metal so the bit does not skate.
3. Pick a setting. High speed for small twist bits in wood; medium for spade and auger bits; low to medium for metal and plastic. The modes are explained in impact driver speed settings.
4. Start slowly and square. Feather the trigger until the bit bites, holding the tool perpendicular to the surface.
5. Let the bit cut. Light, steady pressure. If the tool starts hammering hard, ease off, back the bit out to clear chips and continue.
6. Support the exit. Clamp scrap behind the work to reduce tear-out, or drill from both sides.
7. Let bits cool. In metal, use cutting oil and pause between holes.

Hole saws: a special case

Small hex-shank hole saws for cutting wire or pipe holes in thin material can work on an impact driver. Larger hole saws, especially in hardwood or thick material, chatter under impacts and bind easily. The arbor and pilot bit also take a beating. A drill with steady low-speed torque and a side handle is the right tool for big holes. If you still want to try, read using a hole saw with an impact driver first.

When to just use a drill

• You need holes that line up: hinges, drawer pulls, shelf pins, dowels.
• The hole is larger than about 1 inch, or the material is dense hardwood.
• You are drilling masonry. Then you need a hammer drill. Driving the concrete screws afterward is where the impact driver comes back in; see how to install Tapcon screws.
• You are drilling thick steel or using hole saws regularly.

Owner feedback is consistent: people who own both tools keep the drill for drilling and the impact driver for driving, and use the impact driver for holes only when switching tools would cost more time than it saves.

Frequently asked questions